It is the ultimate. The feeling we crave. The reason for many peoples lives. The sensation when a wave picks you up and transfers you and your board onto its momentum and path. It can last merely a split second, as your board rises up, starts to plane and the wave becomes your playground.
This wave, a unique one off, that has travelled sometimes thousands of miles across the ocean, has become ride-able in that split second. It has given you the opportunity for your many hours, years of dedication and practise, to merge with it and share its power in that first glide.
Snowboarders have deep powder, skaters have bowls, windsurfers have planing, what they all have in common when they are at their best, many proponents will say, is the feeling that 'its just like surfing'. All of these varied and incredible sports all come wanting to experience that same feeling, the first glide on a wave.
Its an addiction, from your first feeling when a tiny broken wave picks you up, to the world's best paddling into huge Hawaiian monsters, the need to feel the glide is what keeps us coming back for more.
Its healthy, its pure, it is the ultimate, that first glide.